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The runup of tsunami waves on the coasts of the barrow bays, channels and straits is studied in the framework of the nonlinear shallow water theory. Using the narrowness of the water channel, the one-dimensional equations are applied; they include the variable cross-section of channel. It is shown that the analytical solutions can be obtained with use of the hodograph (Legendre) transformation similar to the wave runup on the plane beach. As a result, the linear wave equation is derived and all physical variables (water displacement, fluid velocity, coordinate and time) can be determined. The dynamics of the moving shoreline (boundary of the flooding zone) is investigated in details. It is shown that all analytical formulas for the moving shoreline can be obtained explicitly. Two examples of the incident wave shapes are analysed: sine wave and parabolic pulse. The last example demonstrates that even for approaching of the crest only, the flooding can appear very quickly; then water will recede relatively slowly, and then again quickly return to the initial state.
The problem of the long wave runup on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. The key and novel moment here is the analysis of the runup of a certain class of asymmetric waves, the face s
We formulate a new approach to solving the initial value problem of the shallow water-wave equations utilizing the famous Carrier-Greenspan transformation [G. Carrier and H. Greenspan, J. Fluid Mech. 01, 97 (1957)]. We use a Taylor series approximati
The present article is devoted to the influence of sediment layers on the process of tsunami generation. The main scope here is to demonstrate and especially quantify the effect of sedimentation on vertical displacements of the seabed due to an under
We consider the propagation of short waves which generate waves of much longer (infinite) wave-length. Model equations of such long wave-short wave resonant interaction, including integrable ones, are well-known and have received much attention becau
The dynamical degenerate four-wave mixing is studied analytically in detail. By removing the unessential freedom, we first characterize this system by a lower-dimensional closed subsystem of a deformed Maxwell-Bloch type, involving only three physica