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Steepness and spectrum of nonlinear deformed wave in shallow water

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 Added by Pelinovsky
 Publication date 2006
  fields Physics
and research's language is English




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Process of the nonlinear deformation of the surface wave in shallow water is studied. Main attention is paid to the relation between the Fourier-spectrum and wave steepness. It is shown that the spectral harmonics of the initially sine wave can be expressed through the wave steepness, and this is important for applications.

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Process of the nonlinear deformation of the shallow water wave in a basin of constant depth is studied. The characteristics of the first breaking are analyzed in details. The Fourier spectrum and steepness of the nonlinear wave is calculated. It is shown that spectral amplitudes can be expressed through the wave front steepness, and this can be used for practical estimations.
In classical shallow water wave (SWW) theory, there exist two integrable one-dimensional SWW equation [Hirota-Satsuma (HS) type and Ablowitz-Kaup-Newell-Segur (AKNS) type] in the Boussinesq approximation. In this paper, we mainly focus on the integrable SWW equation of AKNS type. The nonlocal symmetry in form of square spectral function is derived starting from its Lax pair. Infinitely many nonlocal symmetries are presented by introducing the arbitrary spectrum parameter. These nonlocal symmetries can be localized and the SWW equation is extended to enlarged system with auxiliary dependent variables. Then Darboux transformation for the prolonged system is found by solving the initial value problem. Similarity reductions related to the nonlocal symmetry and explicit group invariant solutions are obtained. It is shown that the soliton-cnoidal wave interaction solution, which represents soliton lying on a cnoidal periodic wave background, can be obtained analytically. Interesting characteristics of the interaction solution between soliton and cnoidal periodic wave are displayed graphically.
We consider evolution of wave pulses with formation of dispersive shock waves in framework of fully nonlinear shallow-water equations. Situations of initial elevations or initial dips on the water surface are treated and motion of the dispersive shock edges is studied within the Whitham theory of modulations. Simple analytical formulas are obtained for asymptotic stage of evolution of initially localized pulses. Analytical results are confirmed by exact numerical solutions of the fully nonlinear shallow-water equations.
We derive an asymptotic formula for the amplitude distribution in a fully nonlinear shallow-water solitary wave train which is formed as the long-time outcome of the initial-value problem for the Su-Gardner (or one-dimensional Green-Naghdi) system. Our analysis is based on the properties of the characteristics of the associated Whitham modulation system which describes an intermediate undular bore stage of the evolution. The resulting formula represents a non-integrable analogue of the well-known semi-classical distribution for the Korteweg-de Vries equation, which is usually obtained through the inverse scattering transform. Our analytical results are shown to agree with the results of direct numerical simulations of the Su-Gardner system. Our analysis can be generalised to other weakly dispersive, fully nonlinear systems which are not necessarily completely integrable.
We derive boundary conditions and estimates based on the energy and entropy analysis of systems of the nonlinear shallow water equations in two spatial dimensions. It is shown that the energy method provides more details, but is fully consistent with the entropy analysis. The details brought forward by the nonlinear energy analysis allow us to pinpoint where the difference between the linear and nonlinear analysis originate. We find that the result from the linear analysis does not necessarily hold in the nonlinear case. The nonlinear analysis leads in general to a different minimal number of boundary conditions compared with the linear analysis. In particular, and contrary to the linear case, the magnitude of the flow does not influence the number of required boundary conditions.
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