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Steepness and spectrum of nonlinear deformed shallow water wave

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 Added by Pelinovsky
 Publication date 2006
  fields Physics
and research's language is English




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Process of the nonlinear deformation of the shallow water wave in a basin of constant depth is studied. The characteristics of the first breaking are analyzed in details. The Fourier spectrum and steepness of the nonlinear wave is calculated. It is shown that spectral amplitudes can be expressed through the wave front steepness, and this can be used for practical estimations.

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Process of the nonlinear deformation of the surface wave in shallow water is studied. Main attention is paid to the relation between the Fourier-spectrum and wave steepness. It is shown that the spectral harmonics of the initially sine wave can be expressed through the wave steepness, and this is important for applications.
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