No Arabic abstract
The Peregrine breather, today widely regarded as a prototype for spatio-temporally localized rogue waves on the ocean caused by nonlinear focusing, is analyzed by direct numerical simulations based on two-phase Navier-Stokes equations. A finite-volume approach with a volume of fluid method is applied to study the Peregrine breather dynamics up to the initial stages of wave breaking. The comparison of the numerical results with laboratory experiments to validate the numerical approach shows very good agreement and suggests that the chosen method is an effective tool to study modulation instability and breather dynamics in water waves with high accuracy even up to the onset of wave breaking. The numerical results also indicate some previously unnoticed characteristics of the flow fields below the water surface of breathers, which might be of significance for short-term prediction of rogue waves. Recurrent wave breaking is also observed.
Being considered as a prototype for description of oceanic rogue waves (RWs), the Peregrine breather solution of the nonlinear Schrodinger equation (NLS) has been recently observed and intensely investigated experimentally in particular within the context of water waves. Here, we report the experimental results showing the evolution of the Peregrine solution in the presence of wind forcing in the direction of wave propagation. The results show the persistence of the breather evolution dynamics even in the presence of strong wind and chaotic wave field generated by it. Furthermore, we have shown that characteristic spectrum of the Peregrine breather persists even at the highest values of the generated wind velocities thus making it a viable characteristic for prediction of rogue waves.
We show experimentally that a stable wave propagating into a region characterized by an opposite current may become modulationaly unstable. Experiments have been performed in two independent wave tank facilities; both of them are equipped with a wavemaker and a pump for generating a current propagating in the opposite direction with respect to the waves. The experimental results support a recent conjecture based on a current-modified Nonlinear Schrodinger equation which establishes that rogue waves can be triggered by non-homogeneous current characterized by a negative horizontal velocity gradient.
Nonlinear dynamics of surface gravity waves trapped by an opposing jet current is studied analytically and numerically. For wave fields narrowband in frequency but not necessarily with narrow angular distributions the developed asymptotic weakly nonlinear theory based on the modal approach of (V. Shrira, A. Slunyaev, J. Fluid. Mech, 738, 65, 2014) leads to the one-dimensional modified nonlinear Schr{o}dinger equation of self-focusing type for a single mode. Its solutions such as envelope solitons and breathers are considered to be prototypes of rogue waves; these solutions, in contrast to waves in the absence of currents, are robust with respect to transverse perturbations, which suggests potentially higher probability of rogue waves. Robustness of the long-lived analytical solutions in form of the modulated trapped waves and solitary wave groups is verified by direct numerical simulations of potential Euler equations.
A statistical theory of rogue waves is proposed and tested against experimental data collected in a long water tank where random waves with different degrees of nonlinearity are mechanically generated and free to propagate along the flume. Strong evidence is given that the rogue waves observed in the tank are hydrodynamic instantons, that is, saddle point configurations of the action associated with the stochastic model of the wave system. As shown here, these hydrodynamic instantons are complex spatio-temporal wave field configurations, which can be defined using the mathematical framework of Large Deviation Theory and calculated via tailored numerical methods. These results indicate that the instantons describe equally well rogue waves that originate from a simple linear superposition mechanism (in weakly nonlinear conditions) or from a nonlinear focusing one (in strongly nonlinear conditions), paving the way for the development of a unified explanation to rogue wave formation.
The propagation of focused wave groups in intermediate water depth and the shoaling zone is experimentally and numerically considered in this paper. The experiments are carried out in a two-dimensional wave flume and wave trains derived from Pierson-Moskowitz and JONSWAP spectrum are generated. The peak frequency does not change during the wave train propagation for Pierson-Moskowitz waves; however, a downshift of this peak is observed for JONSWAP waves. An energy partitioning is performed in order to track the spatial evolution of energy. Four energy regions are defined for each spectrum type. A nonlinear energy transfer between different spectral regions as the wave train propagates is demonstrated and quantified. Numerical simulations are conducted using a modified Boussinesq model for long waves in shallow waters of varying depth. Experimental results are in satisfactory agreement with numerical predictions, especially in the case of wave trains derived from JONSWAP spectrum.