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A parabolic equation for the propagation of periodic internal waves over varying bottom topography is derived using the multiple-scale perturbation method. Some computational aspects of the numerical implementation are discussed. The results of numerical experiments on propagation of an incident plane wave over a circular-type shoal are presented in comparison with the analytical result, based on Born approximation.
Ocean swell plays an important role in the transport of energy across the ocean, yet its evolution is still not well understood. In the late 1960s, the nonlinear Schr{o}dinger (NLS) equation was derived as a model for the propagation of ocean swell o
The multifractal theory of turbulence is used to investigate the energy cascade in the Northwestern Atlantic ocean. The statistics of singularity exponents of velocity gradients computed from in situ measurements are used to show that the anomalous s
Through ensemble-based data assimilation (DA), we address one of the most notorious difficulties in phase-resolved ocean wave forecast, regarding the deviation of numerical solution from the true surface elevation due to the chaotic nature of and und
The influence of forward speed on stochastic free-surface crossing, in a Gaussian wave field, is investigated. The case of a material point moving with a constant forward speed is considered; the wave field is assumed stationary in time, and homogene
A framework is introduced to compare moist `potential temperatures. The equivalent potential temperature, $theta_e,$ the liquid water potential temperature, $theta_ell,$ and the entropy potential temperature, $theta_s$ are all shown to be potential t