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Through ensemble-based data assimilation (DA), we address one of the most notorious difficulties in phase-resolved ocean wave forecast, regarding the deviation of numerical solution from the true surface elevation due to the chaotic nature of and underrepresented physics in the nonlinear wave models. In particular, we develop a coupled approach of the high-order spectral (HOS) method with the ensemble Kalman filter (EnKF), through which the measurement data can be incorporated into the simulation to improve the forecast performance. A unique feature in this coupling is the mismatch between the predictable zone and measurement region, which is accounted for through a special algorithm to modify the analysis equation in EnKF. We test the performance of the new EnKF-HOS method using both synthetic data and real radar measurements. For both cases (though differing in details), it is shown that the new method achieves much higher accuracy than the HOS-only method, and can retain the phase information of an irregular wave field for arbitrarily long forecast time with sequentially assimilated data.
A formulation is developed to assimilate ocean-wave data into the Numerical Flow Analysis (NFA) code. NFA is a Cartesian-based implicit Large-Eddy Simulation (LES) code with Volume of Fluid (VOF) interface capturing. The sequential assimilation of da
This study investigated an approach to improve the accuracy of computationally lightweight surrogate models by updating forecasts based on historical accuracy relative to sparse observation data. Using a lightweight, ocean-wave forecasting model, we
We calculate the rate of ocean waves energy dissipation due to whitecapping by numerical simulation of deterministic phase resolving model for dynamics of ocean surface. Two independent numerical experiments are performed. First, we solve the $3D$ Ha
The multifractal theory of turbulence is used to investigate the energy cascade in the Northwestern Atlantic ocean. The statistics of singularity exponents of velocity gradients computed from in situ measurements are used to show that the anomalous s
Eddy saturation is the regime in which the total time-mean volume transport of an oceanic current is relatively insensitive to the wind stress forcing and is often invoked as a dynamical description of Southern Ocean circulation. We revisit the probl