ﻻ يوجد ملخص باللغة العربية
The problem of tsunami wave run-up on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. We present an analysis of the run-up characteristics for various shapes of the incoming symmetrical solitary tsunami waves. It will be demonstrated that the extreme (maximal) wave characteristics on a beach (run-up and draw-down heights, run-up and draw-down velocities and breaking parameter) are weakly dependent on the shape of incident wave if the definition of the significant wave length determined on the 2/3 level of the maximum height is used. The universal analytical expressions for the extreme wave characteristics are derived for the run-up of the solitary pulses. They can be directly applicable for tsunami warning because in many case the shape of the incident tsunami wave is unknown.
In the vast literature on tsunami research, few articles have been devoted to energy issues. A theoretical investigation on the energy of waves generated by bottom motion is performed here. We start with the full incompressible Euler equations in the
The purpose of this article is numerical verification of the thory of weak turbulence. We performed numerical simulation of an ensemble of nonlinearly interacting free gravity waves (swell) by two different methods: solution of primordial dynamical e
The generation of a tsunami wave by an aerial landslide is investigated through model laboratory experiments. We examine the collapse of an initially dry column of grains into a shallow water layer and the subsequent generation of waves. The experime
We discuss the solitary wave solutions of a particular two-component scalar field model in two-dimensional Minkowski space. These solitary waves involve one, two or four lumps of energy. The adiabatic motion of these composite non-linear non-dispersive waves points to variations in shape.
Nonlinear wave run-up on the beach caused by harmonic wave maker located at some distance from the shore line is studied experimentally. It is revealed that under certain wave excitation frequencies a significant increase in run-up amplification is o