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Register a new userOn two approaches to the third-order solution of surface gravity waves
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Third-order approximate solutions for surface gravity waves in the finite water depth are studied in the context of potential flow theory. This solution provides explicit expressions for the surface elevation, free-surface velocity potential and velocity potential. The amplitude dispersion relation is also provided. Two approaches are used to derive the third order analytical solution, resulting in two types of approximate solutions: the perturbation solution and the Hamiltonian solution. The perturbation solution is obtained by classical perturbation technique in which the time variable is expanded in multiscale to eliminate secular terms. The Hamiltonian solution is derived from the canonical transformation in the Hamiltonian theory of water waves. By comparing the two types of solutions, it is found that they are completely equivalent for the first to second order solutions and the nonlinear dispersion, but for the third order part only the sum-sum terms are the same. Due to the canonical transformation that could completely separate the dynamic and bound harmonics, the Hamiltonian solutions break through the difficulty that the perturbation theory breaks down due to singularities in the transfer functions when quartet resonance criterion is satisfied. Furthermore, it is also found that some time-averaged quantities based on the Hamiltonian solution, such as mean potential energy and mean kinetic energy, are equal to those in the initial state in which sea surface is assumed to be a Gaussian random process. This is because there are associated conserved quantities in the Hamiltonian form. All of these show that the Hamiltonian solution is more reasonable and accurate to describe the third order steady-state wave field. Finally, based on the Hamiltonian solution, some statistics are given such as the volume flux, skewness, and excess kurtosis.
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In this paper, we numerically study the wave turbulence of surface gravity waves in the framework of Euler equations of the free surface. The purpose is to understand the variation of the scaling of the spectra with wavenumber $k$ and energy flux $P$ at different nonlinearity levels under different forcing/free-decay conditions. For all conditions (free decay, narrow- and broadband forcing) we consider, we find that the spectral forms approach wave turbulence theory (WTT) solution $S_etasim k^{-5/2}$ and $S_etasim P^{1/3}$ at high nonlinearity levels. With the decrease of nonlinearity level, the spectra for all cases become steeper, with the narrow-band forcing case exhibiting the most rapid deviation from WTT. To interpret these spectral variations, we further investigate two hypothetical and disputable mechanisms about bound waves and finite-size effect. Through a tri-coherence analysis, we find that the finite-size effect is present in all cases, which is responsible for the overall steepening of the spectra and reduced capacity of energy flux at lower nonlinearity levels. The fraction of bound waves in the domain generally decreases with the decrease of nonlinearity level, except for the narrow-band case, which exhibits a transition at some critical nonlinearity level below which a rapid increase is observed. This increase serves as the main reason for the fastest deviation from WTT with the decrease of nonlinearity in the narrow-band forcing case.
We discuss the impact of dissipation on the development of the energy spectrum in wave turbulence of gravity surface waves with emphasis on the effect of surface contamination. We performed experiments in the Coriolis facility which is a 13-m diameter wave tank. We took care of cleaning surface contamination as well as possible considering that the surface of water exceeds 100~m$^2$. We observe that for the cleanest condition the frequency energy spectrum shows a power law decay extending up to the gravity capillary crossover (14 Hz) with a spectral exponent that is increasing with the forcing strength and decaying with surface contamination. Although slightly higher than reported previously in the literature, the exponent for the cleanest water remains significantly below the prediction from the Weak Turbulence Theory. By discussing length and time scales, we show that weak turbulence cannot be expected at frequencies above 3 Hz. We observe with a stereoscopic reconstruction technique that the increase with the forcing strength of energy spectrum beyond 3~Hz is mostly due to the formation and strenghtening of bound waves.
Metamaterials and photonic/phononic crystals have been successfully developed in recent years to achieve advanced wave manipulation and control, both in electromagnetism and mechanics. However, the underlying concepts are yet to be fully applied to the field of fluid dynamics and water waves. Here, we present an example of the interaction of surface gravity waves with a mechanical metamaterial, i.e. periodic underwater oscillating resonators. In particular, we study a device composed by an array of periodic submerged harmonic oscillators whose objective is to absorb wave energy and dissipate it inside the fluid in the form of heat. The study is performed using a state of the art direct numerical simulation of the Navier-Stokes equation in its two-dimensional form with free boundary and moving bodies. We use a Volume of Fluid interface technique for tracking the surface and an Immersed Boundary method for the fluid-structure interaction. We first study the interaction of a monochromatic wave with a single oscillator and then add up to four resonators coupled only fluid-mechanically. We study the efficiency of the device in terms of the total energy dissipation and find that by adding resonators, the dissipation increases in a non trivial way. As expected, a large energy attenuation is achieved when the wave and resonators are characterised by similar frequencies. As the number of resonators is increased, the range of attenuated frequencies also increases. The concept and results presented herein are of relevance for applications in coastal protection.
In this Letter we regard nonlinear gravity-capillary waves with parameter of nonlinearity being $varepsilon sim 0.1 div 0.25$. For this nonlinearity time scale separation does not occur and kinetic wave equation does not hold. An energy cascade in this case is built at the dynamic time scale (D-cascade) and is computed by the increment chain equation method first introduced in emph{Kartashova, emph{EPL} textbf{97} (2012), 30004.} We compute for the first time an analytical expression for the energy spectrum of nonlinear gravity-capillary waves as an explicit function depending on the ratio of surface tension to the gravity acceleration. It is shown that its two limits - pure capillary and pure gravity waves on a fluid surface - coincide with the previously obtained results. We also discuss relations of the model of D-cascade with a few known models used in the theory of nonlinear waves such as Zakharovs equation, resonance of the modes with nonlinear Stokes corrected frequencies and Benjamin-Feir index. These connections are crucial in the understanding and forecasting specifics of the energy transport in a variety of multi-component wave dynamics, from oceanography to optics, from plasma physics to acoustics.
In this paper a fully Eulerian solver for the study of multiphase flows for simulating the propagation of surface gravity waves over submerged bodies is presented. We solve the incompressible Navier-Stokes equations coupled with the volume of fluid technique for the modeling of the liquid phases with the interface, an immersed body method for the solid bodies and an iterative strong-coupling procedure for the fluid-structure interaction. The flow incompressibility is enforced via the solution of a Poisson equation which, owing to the density jump across the interfaces of the liquid phases, has to resort to the splitting procedure of Dodd & Ferrante [12]. The solver is validated through comparisons against classical test cases for fluid-structure interaction like migration of particles in pressure-driven channel, multiphase flows, water exit of a cylinder and a good agreement is found for all tests. Furthermore, we show the application of the solver to the case of a surface gravity wave propagating over a submerged reversed pendulum and verify that the solver can reproduce the energy exchange between the wave and the pendulum. Finally the three-dimensional spilling breaking of a wave induced by a submerged sphere is considered.
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