No Arabic abstract
We present a theoretical and numerical framework -- which we dub the Direct Integration Method (DIM) -- for simple, efficient and accurate evaluation of surface wave models allowing presence of a current of arbitrary depth dependence, and where bathymetry and ambient currents may vary slowly in horizontal directions. On horizontally constant water depth and shear current the DIM numerically evaluates the dispersion relation of linear surface waves to arbitrary accuracy, and we argue that for this purpose it is superior to two existing numerical procedures: the piecewise-linear approximation and a method due to textit{Dong & Kirby} [2012]. The DIM moreover yields the full linearized flow field at little extra cost. We implement the DIM numerically with iterations of standard numerical methods. The wide applicability of the DIM in an oceanographic setting in four aspects is shown. Firstly, we show how the DIM allows practical implementation of the wave action conservation equation recently derived by textit{Quinn et al.} [2017]. Secondly, we demonstrate how the DIM handles with ease cases where existing methods struggle, i.e. velocity profiles $mathbf{U}(z)$ changing direction with vertical coordinate $z$, and strongly sheared profiles. Thirdly, we use the DIM to calculate and analyse the full linear flow field beneath a 2D ring wave upon a near--surface wind--driven exponential shear current, revealing striking qualitative differences compared to no shear. Finally we demonstrate that the DIM can be a real competitor to analytical dispersion relation approximations such as that of textit{Kirby & Chen} [1989] even for wave/ocean modelling.
We study dispersion properties of linear surface gravity waves propagating in an arbitrary direction atop a current profile of depth-varying magnitude using a piecewise linear approximation, and develop a robust numerical framework for practical calculation. The method has been much used in the past for the case of waves propagating along the same axis as the background current, and we herein extend and apply it to problems with an arbitrary angle between the wave propagation and current directions. Being valid for all wavelengths without loss of accuracy, the scheme is particularly well suited to solve problems involving a broad range of wave vectors, such as ship waves and Cauchy-Poisson initial value problems for example. We examine the group and phase velocities over different wavelength regimes and current profiles, highlighting characteristics due to the depth-variable vorticity. We show an example application to ship waves on an arbitrary current profile, and demonstrate qualitative differences in the wake patterns between concave down and concave up profiles when compared to a constant shear profile with equal depth-averaged vorticity. We also discuss the nature of additional solutions to the dispersion relation when using the piecewise-linear model. These are vorticity waves, drifting vortical structures which are artifacts of the piecewise model. They are absent for a smooth profile and are spurious in the present context.
We investigate the weakly nonlinear dynamics of transient gravity waves at infinite depth under the influence of a shear current varying linearly with depth. An analytical solution is permitted via integration of the Euler equations. Although similar problems were investigated in the 1960s and 70s for special cases of resonance, this is to our knowledge the first general wave interaction (mode coupling) solution derived to second order with a shear current present. Wave interactions are integrable in a spectral convolution to yield the second order dynamics of initial value problems. To second order, irrotational wave dynamics interacts with the background vorticity field in a way that creates new vortex structures. A notable example is the large parallel vortices which drive Langmuir circulation as oblique plane waves interact with an ocean current. We also investigate the effect on wave pairs which are misaligned with the shear current. In contrast to a conjecture by Leibovich (1983) we find similar, but skewed, vortex structures in every case except when the mean wave direction is perpendicular to the direction of the current. Similar nonlinear wave-shear interactions are found to also generate near-field vortex structures in the Cauchy-Poisson problem with an initial surface elevation. These interactions create further groups of dispersive ring waves in addition to those present in linear theory. The second order solution is derived in a general manner which accommodates any initial condition through mode coupling over a continuous wave spectrum. It is therefore applicable to a range of problems including special cases of resonance. As a by--product of the general theory, a simple expression for the Stokes drift due to a monochromatic wave propagating at oblique angle with a current of uniform vorticity is derived, for the first time to our knowledge.
We report experimental observations of two canonical surface wave patterns --- ship waves and ring waves --- skewed by sub-surface shear, thus confirming effects predicted by recent theory. Observed ring waves on a still surface with sub-surface shear current are strikingly asymmetric, an effect of strongly anisotropic wave dispersion. Ship waves for motion across a sub--surface current on a still surface exhibit striking asymmetry about the ships line of motion, and large differences in wake angle and transverse wavelength for upstream vs downstream motion are demonstrated, all of which in good agreement with theoretical predictions. Neither of these phenomena can occur on a depth-uniform current. A quantitative comparison of measured vs predicted average phase shift for a ring wave is grossly mispredicted by no-shear theory, but in good agreement with predictions for the measured shear current. A clear difference in wave frequency within the ring wave packet is observed in the upstream vs downstream direction for all shear flows, while it conforms with theory for quiescent water for propagation normal to the shear current, as expected. Peak values of the measured 2-dimensional Fourier spectrum for ship waves are shown to agree well with the predicted criterion of stationary ship waves, with the exception of some cases where results are imperfect due to the limited wave-number resolution, transient effects and/or experimental noise. Experiments were performed on controlled shear currents created in two different ways, with a curved mesh, and beneath a blocked stagnant-surface flow. Velocity profiles were measured with particle image velocimetry, and surface waves with a synthetic schlieren method. Our observations lend strong empirical support to recent predictions that wave forces on vessels and structures can be greatly affected by shear in estuarine and tidal waters.
The propagation of surface water waves interacting with a current and an uneven bottom is studied. Such a situation is typical for ocean waves where the winds generate currents in the top layer of the ocean. The role of the bottom topography is taken into account since it also influences the local wave and current patterns. Specific scaling of the variables is selected which leads to approximations of Boussinesq and KdV types. The arising KdV equation with variable coefficients, dependent on the bottom topography, is studied numerically when the initial condition is in the form of the one soliton solution for the initial depth. Emergence of new solitons is observed as a result of the wave interaction with the uneven bottom.
We examine a two dimensional fluid system consisting of a lower medium bounded underneath by a flatbed and an upper medium with a free surface. The two media are separated by a free common interface. The gravity driven surface and internal water waves (at the common interface between the media) in the presence of a depth-dependent current are studied under certain physical assumptions. Both media are considered incompressible and with prescribed vorticities. Using the Hamiltonian approach the Hamiltonian of the system is constructed in terms of wave variables and the equations of motion are calculated. The resultant equations of motion are then analysed to show that wave-current interaction is influenced only by the current profile in the strips adjacent to the surface and the interface. Small amplitude and long-wave approximations are also presented.