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The propagation of focused wave groups in intermediate water depth and the shoaling zone is experimentally and numerically considered in this paper. The experiments are carried out in a two-dimensional wave flume and wave trains derived from Pierson-Moskowitz and JONSWAP spectrum are generated. The peak frequency does not change during the wave train propagation for Pierson-Moskowitz waves; however, a downshift of this peak is observed for JONSWAP waves. An energy partitioning is performed in order to track the spatial evolution of energy. Four energy regions are defined for each spectrum type. A nonlinear energy transfer between different spectral regions as the wave train propagates is demonstrated and quantified. Numerical simulations are conducted using a modified Boussinesq model for long waves in shallow waters of varying depth. Experimental results are in satisfactory agreement with numerical predictions, especially in the case of wave trains derived from JONSWAP spectrum.
In this study we investigated the capabilities of the mesh-free, Lagrangian particle method (Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics, SPH) to simulate the detailed hydrodynamic processes generated by both spilling and plunging breaking waves within the surf
Results of direct numerical simulation of isotropic turbulence of surface gravity waves in the framework of Hamiltonian equations are presented. For the first time simultaneous formation of both direct and inverse cascades was observed in the framewo
To investigate the formation mechanism of energy spectra of internal waves in the oceans, direct numerical simulations are performed. The simulations are based on the reduced dynamical equations of rotating stratified turbulence. In the reduced dynam
Smoldering combustion plays an important role in forest and wildland fires. Fires from smoldering combustion can last for long periods of time, emit more pollutants, and be difficult to extinguish. This makes the study of smoldering in woody fuels an
The Peregrine breather, today widely regarded as a prototype for spatio-temporally localized rogue waves on the ocean caused by nonlinear focusing, is analyzed by direct numerical simulations based on two-phase Navier-Stokes equations. A finite-volum