Dissipative models of swell propagation across the Pacific


Abstract in English

Ocean swell plays an important role in the transport of energy across the ocean, yet its evolution is still not well understood. In the late 1960s, the nonlinear Schr{o}dinger (NLS) equation was derived as a model for the propagation of ocean swell over large distances. More recently, a number of dissipative generalizations of the NLS equation based on a simple dissipation assumption have been proposed. These models have been shown to accurately model wave evolution in the laboratory setting, but their validity in modeling ocean swell has not previously been examined. We study the efficacy of the NLS equation and four of its generalizations in modeling the evolution of swell in the ocean. The dissipative generalizations perform significantly better than conservative models and are overall reasonable models for swell amplitudes, indicating dissipation is an important physical effect in ocean swell evolution. The nonlinear models did not out-perform their linearizations, indicating linear models may be sufficient in modeling ocean swell evolution.

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