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تسجيل مستخدم جديدSteepness and spectrum of nonlinear deformed wave in shallow water
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Process of the nonlinear deformation of the surface wave in shallow water is studied. Main attention is paid to the relation between the Fourier-spectrum and wave steepness. It is shown that the spectral harmonics of the initially sine wave can be expressed through the wave steepness, and this is important for applications.
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